Textures on the Terrace

WHAT BETTER WAY to trail the events of Taste Portugal 2014/15, than to bring together two fantastic chefs, the Portuguese Vasco Lello, chef at Flores do Bairro, the restaurant of Lisbon’s classy 5* boutique Bairro Alto Hotel, and Lancastrian Nigel Haworth, head chef at Northcote and managing director of Ribble Valley Inns?

Haworth, who flew out specially to join the Taste Portugal press trippers in Lisbon, has long been a fan of Portuguese cuisine, and Northcote has won awards for its selection and promotion of Portuguese wines. Haworth is keen to learn more about the food, however, especially since his son is going out with a Brazilian: ‘I have to learn to cook this kind of food,’ he says.

As we sit out on Bairro Alto’s sixth floor Terraço, basking in the autumnal sun, we are able to enjoy views across the rooftops to the Rio Tejo. It is easy to see why this venue recently won fourth best hotel terrace view in the world. The event offers an opportunity to greet members of the Portuguese press, who are keen to discover what Taste Portugal is all about. Both they and we are excited to watch as Lello and Haworth combine their culinary prowess to demonstrate a variety of codfish recipes, coming together to create a taster plate, served delightfully with flowers and salsa. Before becoming a chef, Lello trained as an artist, and it is not hard to believe, looking at his presentation now.

Sautéeing the cod, with the pre-heated hotplate turned off, so that the fish cooks through, but slowly, remaining gelatinous, Haworth follows Lello’s instructions. ‘I’m learning, Vasco, I’m learning,’ he laughs. ‘Usually it’s the other way round – I’m giving the instructions – but it’s good to learn.’

The textures are not easy. Haworth observes that he’s seen similar recipes in action before, and generally men enjoy them, while women struggle. I admit that I fall into this generalisation. But not everyone in our group does.

The flavours are intense and fresh. Ceps, butter beans, ginja (a traditional cherry liqueur), turnip sprouts – and plenty of olive oil. ‘What would we do without olive oil?’ Haworth muses. ‘It’s like cling film. We couldn’t cook without olive oil and cling film.’

Watching the two star chefs cook and plate the food together is an enlightening and enjoyable experience. Both successes in their own right, they are nevertheless happy to learn and share techniques. And this is precisely what Taste Portugal is all about: bringing together flavours and traditions, showcasing the best of each culinary culture, promoting cultural tourism and enjoying the most delicious fresh food and wine.

Vasco Lello will be in London for the World Travel Market from 3-5 November 2014, where he will be carrying out further cooking demonstrations on behalf of Taste Portugal. He will also be cooking up a seafood dinner along with David Cook at the Wright Bros. Oyster Bar in Spitalfields on 4 December 2014.

Nigel Haworth will be helping to create a dégustation dinner with harmonised wine menu, alongside Angela Hartnett and Benoit Sinthon, at Murano on 7 November 2014.  


With thanks to the Bairro Alto Hotel, Lisbon, where we enjoyed a comfortable and pampered night, in splendid rooms belonging to the 200-year-old palace.