Ocean: The Art of Dining

AWARDED ITS SECOND Michelin star in 2011, Ocean, the flagship restaurant at the Vila Vita Parc Resort & Spa, is kept on its course of smooth sailing by Austrian head chef Hans Neuner, whose mantra is to keep it simple. Strange, this might seem, when his seven-course menu, preceded by ‘snacks’ and succeeded by petit fours, is so elaborate. Nevertheless, the flavours were unadulterated and exquisite, and the presentation quite unlike anything else I’d ever seen.

The snacks included Frango Piri-Piri, served on crisp chicken skin, with all of the flavour of the entire bird condensed into one little square; Salada Algarvia Grilled, a traditional but adapted delight, here with tomato replacing the potato; Alentejo Rabbit / Duckliver / Figs, a melt-in-the-mouth combination of Portuguese meat products, also including pata negra, with the foie gras served grated on a hollowed out, varnished olive tree branch; Scorpionfish / Dried Olive, served as small rolls on a platter painted with red coral using a paprika mousse; Scallop Chips /Mackeral;an extra treat of Moray Eel, with its skin baked and framed – literally – as a picture; and Shellfish Xerém, with razor clams and mussels, served with a delicious broth in a conch shell, and a miniature garden – sandy like Derek Jarman’s – almost too beautiful to touch.

The main menu, with each course paired with a deliciously suitable wine, began with Violet Prawn from Tavira / Corn from Aljezur / Smoked Milk / Chickweed / Cornbread, served with 2013 Soalheiro Reserva, a white wine made from 100% Alvarinho, fresh and light, and from the northern corner of the country. The magic of this plate was that some of the ‘corn’ was actually made of carefully pipetted corn mousse – a clever illusion created by skilful hands, and the start of an evening of presentational delights.

This was followed by John Dory / ‘Burned’ Artichoke / Zucchini Flower / Baby Octopus / ‘Molho Enchidos’, servedreplete with harpoon, with the octopus tentacles coloured with sepia and a foam made from different Portuguese sausages. This was accompanied by 2012 Conceito, a white wine made from old vines in the Douro, a blend of grapes with high minerality, aged for nine months in French oak barrels.

Third came the first proper meat course: Spare Ribs of Black Porc / Young Onion / Mustard Seeds paired with 2009 Encostas de Estremos Reserva, an Alentejan red blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Alicante Bouschet.

This was followed by Veal Tail & Veal Tongue / Pata Negra Foam / Cepes, deliciously tender, and paired with the only French wine of the evening, 2000 Château Quinault L’Enclos, from St Emilion – a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot.

The cheese platter came with Palestine lime and charred Jerusalem artichoke twigs, accompanied by Casa Santa Eufémia, 30 Anos, a sumptuous white Port which also carried us through the preliminary dessert course of pear sorbet, marinated pear, honey jelly and saffron, to the pièce de résistance main dessert: White Chocolate / Macadamia / Peach / Sour Cream, comprising peach cake, peach slice, white chocolate and peach mousses, sour ice cream and a whole macadamia truffle. This, as the grand finale, was paired with a Portuguese Sauterne: 2010 Rozés Noble Late Harvest from the Douro region.

The petit fours, for those who still could manage anything, were expertly crafted chocolate and praline shells displayed on coral. For those who couldn’t, they were packed up neatly to take home.

The tattooed chef came out to greet us and check our satisfaction levels: all I can say is that he well deserves his two Michelin stars. Presentation alone was something quite unbeatable; taste, well, there are no words fit to describe.

Vila Vita Parc & Spa is set over 54 acres and, along with nine restaurants and seven bars, holds the largest private collection of wines in Portugal. Thank you to Katya Bauval for organising and hosting such a memorable evening.