TASTE PORTUGAL LONDON 2014/15 arrives

TASTE PORTUGAL 2014/15 launched to grand applause this week when the doors of The Ledbury opened to members of the British press; the charming Portuguese Ambassador, João de Vallera; António Padeira from the Portuguese Tourism Board; and tables full of lucky diners. All were welcomed in from the rain to enjoy an extensive tasting menu prepared harmoniously by three of the world’s greatest chefs, each from a restaurant with a proud two Michelin stars. Australian Brett Graham, whose establishment we were in, was joined by two Austrians: Hans Neuner from Ocean at Vila Vita Parc in the Algarve and Dieter Koschina from Vila Joya, also in the Algarve.

The chefs were supported by two fantastic sommeliers, The Ledbury’s own Anya Brieg and Antonio Lopes from Heinz Beck’s Gusto at the Conrad Algarve. Serving some delicious wines, selected with the advice of TASTE PORTUGAL’s executive sommelier Arnaud Vallet (Vila Joya), they were also on hand for a pre-meal tasting session – joined by Danny Cameron from Raymond Reynolds and Filipa Silva from Malhadinha Nova – at which guests could learn a lot about the joys that Portugal’s many wineries have to offer.

In the splendid environment of the Notting Hill venue, guests were first of all treated to an aperitif of the deliciously fruity – red fruits, not green, despite the white colour of the wine – Antão Vaz da Peceguina 2013 from the Alentejo and snacks of an extravagant nature: champagne soup; rice crackers with oysters; tomato salad (and that’s with smoked tomato foam, not sliced and raw); chicken sandwiched between crispy chicken skin; pork belly with lemon and bergamot; and quail’s egg with chouriço and potato. These were served with rye bread and what, at first sight, looked like butter, but actually proved to be a creamy, rich and popular goat’s whey.

The starter was a juicy and red langoustine, flavoured with citrus, and served with dried yoghurt and lettuce, as designed by Neuner. This was accompanied by a white Meandro Vale Meão Branco from the Douro – a highlight of the evening, since this is a new wine, first made in 2013, being shown here for the first time in the UK.

The entrée courses comprised a second dish by Neuner of perfectly textured John Dory, served with burned artichokes, octopus and octopus eggs, accompanied by Royal Palmeira 2010 with its bouquet of bay leaves, and Koschina’s veal fillet, clams and gambas, cooked with tomato and coriander in a cataplana, intensifying the flavours to create a heady and deliciously fresh platter. This latter was paired with Malhadinha Branco 2011.

The main meat course was prepared by the host chef, Graham, and was a combination of lamb neck and lamb chop – each succulent and tender – served with turnip, turnip puree and horseradish. This was accompanied by Niepoort’s caramelly flagship wine, Batuta 2009, a blend made from aged vines in the Douro.

A palate-cleansing pre-dessert of tomato tamarillo compote and basil yoghurt sorbet, concocted by the two invited chefs, prepared the way for the grand finale: Koschina’s dessert proper, a luscious – and beautiful – lychee and raspberry creation, paired with Colinas Espumante Brut Rosé, a sparkling pinot noir from the Bairrada region, one of the historical centres of Lusitania from which the Romans deemed the wine good enough to be sent back home to the courts. I believe we all could see why.

The evening was concluded with Ramos Pinto 20 Years Old Tawny Quinta do Bom Retiro, along with coffee, tea and truffles. For those who wanted, the chefs opened up the kitchen for a quick behind-the-scenes peek, and then, sadly, it was off back out into the drizzly London night – but with the taste of Portugal firmly seeded in both belly and heart. The happy guests have already begun their countdown to November’s programme of TASTE PORTUGAL events. Take a look at our calendar so that you can join them!